You must cover the basics when starting out, the first few steps you will need to cover are...
1: First choose the right board
2: 2nd learn to paddle
3: Learn the art of getting out through the breakers, by duck diving or rolling
4: 4th catch that first wave
5: Last of all, you can now learn how to pop up or stand on your board
Lets first cover choosing the right board. To choose the right board, you might be thinking of what looks the coolest, or what the pros are riding. But believe me you won't look very cool trying to stand up on a 6ft thruster if you haven't mastered the basics.
Don't worry you will get there, but first you need to start on a board that floats well, and is easy to paddle. So the bigger the better, and obviously the bigger person you are, the bigger board you will need.
If you start on a longer board, you will be able to learn your balance before moving to a shorter surfboard. Find a board longer then 6 feet and 10 inches, you can go right up to 12 foot or more if you want, there will certainly be plenty of flotation. The problem might be getting it out past the breakers and turning it around to catch a wave, I suggest around 7ft to 8ft.
Your first board can have all the dings in the world, it doesn't matter. You don't need to worry about how it will affect the board, you won't be doing any turns or tricks. While dings don't matter, or what the board looks like, you don't want any foam showing through, or the fiberglass cracked or peeled off. If this is the case you will want to repair it with some resin. Water will soak into the foam and weigh the board down.
The biggest factor in choosing the right board is size, shape and number of fins do not matter at all. These things affect people who will be turning the board more, and you just want to stand up and get your balance, so take no notice of them. Just make sure your surfboard is at least 2 to 3 inches in thickness, and anywhere from 20 inches in width.
Most importantly when you get your first board is to get a leg rope. You might hear horror stories of the board getting dragged under then getting pulled back towards you like a bungee and knocking you out, but this will only happen in huge swell, which I hope you will not be tackling when learning to surf.
If you go out without a leg rope, or an old one that snaps, I can guarantee you will loose your board. Swimming in the ocean is dangerous, you have rips, gutters, sweeps and waves knocking you about, it is also hard to see anybody through the waves.
The many elements of the ocean could have you swimming as hard as you can, while you feel like your going nowhere. You might even be able to see your board drifting towards you, but just before you can reach it a wave will pick it up and carry it away, yet you will have to much drag for the wave to pick you up. Even if you are a strong enough swimmer, it will take a lot of time and energy just to get your board every time.
When choosing a leg rope, get something reliable and strong. Unlike your first board you want quality, this is your life saver. You can keep this, and transfer it to your new board once you get it, so don't worry about it being wasted on an old board. Also don't get something to long, the longer the rope the more tension it can build up to spring the board back at you with force. Stay under 8ft.
Once you have your big old board, your ready to practice. Read my other articles on how to surf, for the next steps involved. Then grab a mate and head out, its always wise to go with someone else in case you get into trouble.
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